Arrival at the "Fortress of the Lord"
In Georgia, there was one place I couldn’t miss—an ancient cave city hidden in the eastern part of the country. The drive from the historic city of Gori, Stalin's birthplace and theater of hostilities in the brief war of 2008, to Uplistsikhe was short, but full of excitement. The road led us to a landscape reminiscent of another era.
The First Impression
Arriving, as we faced the sight of the rock formations with the carved buildings, we were speechless. It looked like a ghost town that had slipped forward through time — ancient, yet suddenly here in front of us.
The History of the City
Uplistsikhe, meaning "Fortress of the Lord," dates back to the 2nd millennium BC, was a religious and political center of ancient Iberia and is considered to be the oldest human settlement in Georgia. It has moved through cycles of prosperity and decline, survived raids and earthquakes, and still holds the weight of all that time.
Wandering in the... Holes
The corridors and rooms, which are carved into the sandstone, form a labyrinth, which is not guarded by... the Minotaur, but dozens of tiny lizards "dressed" in the colors of the rock. They are quick, though, and very discreet. Moving through the ruins, you can spot decorative elements in places — carved columns and ceilings that hint at the city's prosperity in its time.
The Secret Tunnel
Among the most impressive structures, the secret tunnel leading to the river stood out. This exit was a lifeline for the inhabitants in times of siege. From the highest point of the rock, the view of the river and the whole site opens up. Give yourself at least four hours — it's not enough to rush.
The City Temple
At the top of the settlement, there is the 9th-century basilica, an Orthodox Christian church, which continued to function even after the city was abandoned. Step inside — the interior is worth the climb on its own. Plus, from there, you'll have a perfect view of the river.
The Meeting Places
What certainly continues to impress are the large halls in the interior or semi-interior areas of the rocks. Most likely, these are assembly or command points. Also, the excavations that have been carried out over the years have brought to light several objects that were used in everyday life during the time when there was life in the city.
Destruction and Abandonment
The city suffered great damage from the Mongol raids in the 14th century. Despite the efforts of the residents to protect themselves, the minimal means they had on the one hand and the overwhelming force of the Mongol hordes on the other, left them no room to react. What survived the raids was further damaged by the earthquake of 1920.
Maintenance Efforts
Back in the 1950s, Uplistsikhe had already become a popular tourist destination, and in 2007 it was added to the UNESCO List and is now a protected monument. The authorities maintain the site — it draws visitors year-round, with peak numbers in the warmer months.
A Window into the Past
Visiting Uplistsikhe was clearly a trip back in time for me. From the top, the image of the river Kyros and the surrounding mountains was magnificent, reminding us of the importance of this ancient settlement. For landscape photography, the light and the rock formations offer something at almost every angle — as the images here show.
